Alan B
12-17-2008, 12:50 PM
I will be scanning my collection of 35mm transparencies (98% Kodachrome) dating back to the early 70's. I did enough research to know that a flat bed scanner will not work (as my Epson Photo 3170 so aptly proved). As a result I purchased a new Nikon 5000 ED (to be delivered Friday) as this seems to be a favorite of many for this type of work short of a drum scanner.
I have generated many questions during this research, so please bear with me:
1. I want to make this job of scanning and processing my Kodachrome transparencies as painless as possible. So I am considering SilverFast's Ai software as from what I have read all other scanning software (Including Nikon's & Vuescan) do not have an automated way to correct for the blue cast inherent in scanning. First of all is that true? Do any other programs make use of a iT8 target for color correction? If you have some set routines in removing the blue cast in software that would be appreciated.
2. Have any user's here used the Nikon 5000 ED with the new Silverfast ai software with the new Nikon/dust removal feature? From what I am reading, the Nikon scan software while it has a selection for ICE and Kodachrome, the software tones down the dust removal feature due to potential problems. Is Silverfast's implementation better in removing dust?
3. Which version of Silverfast Ai do you prefer the Windows or Mac version. I have just acquired my first Apple (MacBook Pro, previous model with matte screen) a couple of weeks ago so I guess I could run it on that platform. But I do have available a 3.0GHz Pentium with 2GB ram running Windows XP that I can dedicate to this project (useful for batch scanning with the SF-210 (if it does not jam))
4. I am not a Photoshop CS4 user. I have used Photoshop Elements 2.0 and 4.0 (Windows versions). Is or will Photoshop Elements 7 (or version 6 for the Mac) do what I need to do for post scanning? I have no interest in doing any fancy photo manipulation. I just want to (after scanning) archive all of my 35mm Kodachrome in the best possible manner making as few changes as possible (color, contrast, sharpening, etc.) and saving them as tiff files. I then want to put some on a DVD for playback on my big screen tv (through my Macbook Pro as I can at least output a 1080i picture). I will/may only print a few of them.
5. Even if not printing, have you found it necessary to calibrate your monitor, say using x-Rite EODIS2 Eye-One Display 2 ( http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS2-Eye-One-Display-2/dp/B000JLO31M/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3?ie=UTF8&s=software&qid=1229444779&sr=8-3 )?
6. Do any of you have any tips or suggestions for a new one starting down this road? (other than don't, I am retired so time is more plentiful than money).
Your help is much appreciated.
Alan B
I have generated many questions during this research, so please bear with me:
1. I want to make this job of scanning and processing my Kodachrome transparencies as painless as possible. So I am considering SilverFast's Ai software as from what I have read all other scanning software (Including Nikon's & Vuescan) do not have an automated way to correct for the blue cast inherent in scanning. First of all is that true? Do any other programs make use of a iT8 target for color correction? If you have some set routines in removing the blue cast in software that would be appreciated.
2. Have any user's here used the Nikon 5000 ED with the new Silverfast ai software with the new Nikon/dust removal feature? From what I am reading, the Nikon scan software while it has a selection for ICE and Kodachrome, the software tones down the dust removal feature due to potential problems. Is Silverfast's implementation better in removing dust?
3. Which version of Silverfast Ai do you prefer the Windows or Mac version. I have just acquired my first Apple (MacBook Pro, previous model with matte screen) a couple of weeks ago so I guess I could run it on that platform. But I do have available a 3.0GHz Pentium with 2GB ram running Windows XP that I can dedicate to this project (useful for batch scanning with the SF-210 (if it does not jam))
4. I am not a Photoshop CS4 user. I have used Photoshop Elements 2.0 and 4.0 (Windows versions). Is or will Photoshop Elements 7 (or version 6 for the Mac) do what I need to do for post scanning? I have no interest in doing any fancy photo manipulation. I just want to (after scanning) archive all of my 35mm Kodachrome in the best possible manner making as few changes as possible (color, contrast, sharpening, etc.) and saving them as tiff files. I then want to put some on a DVD for playback on my big screen tv (through my Macbook Pro as I can at least output a 1080i picture). I will/may only print a few of them.
5. Even if not printing, have you found it necessary to calibrate your monitor, say using x-Rite EODIS2 Eye-One Display 2 ( http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS2-Eye-One-Display-2/dp/B000JLO31M/ref=pd_bbs_sr_3?ie=UTF8&s=software&qid=1229444779&sr=8-3 )?
6. Do any of you have any tips or suggestions for a new one starting down this road? (other than don't, I am retired so time is more plentiful than money).
Your help is much appreciated.
Alan B